Wednesday, March 09, 2011

Gumboot Diplomacy


The English language revels in its irregular verbs:

  • I'm a traveller, you're a tourist, he's EasyJet ballast;
  • I appreciate erotica, you watch porn, she's a former Home Secretary;

That sort of thing. One verb to savour is "I work abroad, you've gone native, he's an expat".

The British abroad are a queasy seesaw of expat and diplomat. Expats, whether metro journalist or furrowed accountant, all decompose into a septic tank of drunken suburban prejudice and low-wattage adultery.

British diplomats, whether baronets or bursary boys, rise into a Zen stratosphere of airless detachment from the life of others.

The recent turmoil in Libya has provided virtuoso displays of both. Take the expat who complained to the BBC that African migrant workers were slicking Tripoli airport with their tears when they didn't even have passports and his kitchen still needed mopping. He was grateful to Col Gaddafi's toughs for clearing his path to duty-free. Classy.

As for the Foreign & Commonwealth Office, it never lets us Schadenfreunde down. Making expats show a bit of leg to every passing troop-carrier was a true crowd-pleaser. But nothing prepared even the most jaded observer for their decision to drop Terry-Thomas and The Professionals, unannounced, by helicopter into territory where the noble, trigger-happy rebels were preparing to repulse Gaddafi's air attacks.

If you ever wonder why a country like Britain maintains such an extensive diplomatic corps, there is your answer. It takes teams of tombstone-toothed tools in dandruffed suits to come up with ideas that even SOE would have rejected during the invasion of Crete, and all to maintain Britain's international reputation for endearing if sometimes deadly eccentricity.

There were many joys to life as a foreign student in the Glorious Soviet Union, but chief among them was the realisation that the entire country was run on an operational basis by drunks.

I have written about this in detail, but one aspect I failed to mention was the pleasure derived from encounters between truculent Russian drunks (Russ: пьяный мужик) and middle-class Englishmen with a misplaced sense of entitlement (Lat: vagina correcta).

In those days the British Embassy in Moscow was a Tangiers of pinstriped stupidity, where stammering consuls rubbed bulbous Adam's apples with Magdalene M.Phil.s, all in pursuit of a tennis court. An hour sat in the lobby was the best recruiting sergeant the Communist Party (Hairy-Arsed Pickaxe Faction) could have imagined.

I heard some choice tales of buffoonery over those months. A Thatcher-era cabinet minister arrived at midnight in a midwinter city somewhere beyond the Urals to attend an international beetroot symposium. He was denied access to his hotel by the usual gnarled war veteran who'd leafed through the Wehrmacht etiquette book before bayoneting its owner with a frozen wolf.

"I'm a government minister, from Britain!" the hireling of capital had wailed. "Britain? Never heard of it!" snapped ex-Gunner Yebalkin before slamming the door and returning to his bucket of vodka.

From that day on, an embassy flunkey had to fly ahead and occupy the hotel room until the visiting duffer du jour had arrived.

My own experience of a winoes vs whiners bout was less epic in scale but all the more satisfying for the small part I played on the side of the workers, peasants and revolutionary soldiery.

I had arrived back in Moscow after a pleasant fortnight delousing in London. The flight, bound for Tokyo, stopped off at Sheremetyevo Airport in the early hours, catching the aerial portal to the Soviet Union at its sepulchral best.

Sheremetyevo by day was a Führerbunker that the Reich had never got round to burying, full of cardboard uniforms, fizzing electrical circuits and huddles of leprous men in leather caps and piss-stained brown trousers.

But by night it became Czarina Anna's ice palace. Corridors of gleaming marble glided into distant darkness. The chill silence was disturbed only by the drip-drip of thawing sentries. Every surface glowed in gentle lemon neon.

Into this vacuum-cleaner's Valhalla stepped myself, half-a-dozen other slackers, and a middle-aged couple flanked by invisible barriers of disdain. He was well-tailored, lightly tanned and severely side-parted. She was brittle, like thin ice rather than cut crystal. They looked around in mild distraction.

"Passport control's over there," I offered with the random amiability that steady ingestion of advocaat can bring.

"Not for us, actually," she snapped.

They made off for the Diplomatic Channel, which differed from the workers, peasants etc line only in being unstaffed.

  • There they stood as we brave few shuffled past the KGB blonde.
  • Still they stood as we picked up our bags.
  • Stood they yet as, having explained the use and abuse of garter belts to a bumpkin customs officer, we strode out into Socialist Paradise and followed the aroma of meths and exploding cigarettes to the taxi rank.

I loitered a little, being something of a théâtromane, to see what happened to the Rattigan Couple. The customs officer wandered over to them and gesticulated towards the KGB gorgon.

"We're British diplomats, actually," hissed the wife in an accent that spoke of shabby boarding schools, secretarial courses and matrimonial miscalculation. Her husband looked as if he'd just had his colon sandpapered.

"Go there!" barked the Shield of the Revolution. A drunk bloke had meanwhile appeared from behind a rubber flap and started hauling their bags away in a most undiplomatic manner.

"No!" squeaked Mrs Actually, clattering across the hall and straight into the rough embrace of Corporal Mordaboyko, who pointed her back to passport control.

As she trudged the ten yards of defeat, I quietly whistled the Laurel & Hardy tune. I repeated the performance after they had both submitted their passports to the blonde. Her arch comment "But these are diplomatic passports!" broke the language barrier effortlessly before she waved them through with a flick of her Kalashnikov-stripping wrist.

While my betters waited to have their passports bent out of shape, I'd busied myself with finding a taxi. There was only one driver left, and I managed to haggle him down with the inducement of the British Airways in-flight magazine, which happened to feature an underdressed actress on the cover. "English gentleman's journal, most depraved," I urged.

The Actuallies limped out onto the freezing concourse just as the driver dropped my duffel bag in the boot. "Taxi!" ventured the Second Secretary, whose official car must have displayed an impeccable sense of British justice by not turning up.

"Yes, I know," I waved cheerily as I settled into the passenger seat of the sole mobile vehicle in a 2km radius. They were still standing there as we vanished between the silver birches, bound for the bright lights and dark pleasures of Boris Galushkin Street.






57 comments:

Pearl said...

You're writing always leaves me feeling a little bit brighter...

Don't always comment, but I'm still out here, lurking.

That is all.

Pearl

Gorilla Bananas said...

I hope they gave Corporal Mordaboyko the Order of Lenin for putting that parvenu in her place. So there really are reasons to lament the fall of the Soviet Union. I had thought this was a canard advanced by Stalinist chimps in leotards.

No Good Boyo said...

Lovely to hear from you Pearl. I aim to show the world that the Soviet Union, despite its deserved reputation for frightful beastliness, had its uses.

GB, I'm sure Mordaboyko enjoyed the booty that the drunk bloke lifted from the diplomats' bags while they were being processed.

Stalinist Chimp Boy was proof that one of the Soviet Union's major problem was its self-proclaimed foreign friends. Imagine the contempt with which they were held in the Kremlin and by the kvass stand alike.

M C Ward said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
M C Ward said...

Great stuff, Boyo. My best friend was almost left behind when trying to exit the USSR after our sixth form trip there and he lost the vodka-stained piece of paper he received upon entry. Luckily, despite having sold off all his colourful clothing to various passers-by and being convinced the KGB were on to him, he'd bought a statuette of Comrade Lenin, convinced it would one day be a rare collector's item. Capitalist chicanery won the day.

Will H said...

I came across you a long time ago, so to speak, but for whatever reason lost touch with this blog. Its a pleasure to be back.

I spent 13 hrs at that airport. I found a flatpack Irish pub that seemed to have been desposited onto that vast concourse by leprechauns. From the outside it was a large balck, windowless box, adrift on a sea of marble with the words 'Murphy's Bar' painted on the door. Inside, it was a haven of diddly-dee, oirish paddywackery, draft stout and double Bushmills.

The next thing I remember was that I was at Heathrow. I'd obviously made my conecting flight but have absolutely no recollection as to how. Very confusing.

No Good Boyo said...

For a monolith of totalitarian bastardy, the Soviet Union was remarkably needy, MC. You could get out of a remarkable lot of minor trouble, like visa loss, hitting a student or pissing on the Eternal Flame by putting on an awful Russian accent and declaring "Long Live the Soviet Union!". Always having a "glass passport" (bottle of stolly)also helped.

Welcome to Welshworld, Will. Irish pubs have spread across the airports of the former Soviet Union like an agreeable fungus. The authorities like them because they get some revenue and may gradually wean their charges off monkey juice and onto something weaker. Punters like them because it means you don't have to spend 13 hours discussing how great Stalin was with some onion-breathed pointy-stick salesman from Omsk.

Sauti Ndogo said...

Expat-wise, the wives are always the worst, aren't they?

No doubt, like me, you'll have seen written down the variant "ex-patriot" and thought, "indeed...".

Ron Combo said...

Wonderful stuff. Speaking from a gin-raddled expat position of course.

No Good Boyo said...

Too right, Sauti. I recall appalling non-jobsworths at the British Consulate in Moscow who were allowed to answer the phones. When someone dared to call up in Russian they'd just repeat over and over that they didn't speak it. One of them snalled at a baffled caller that she was "just a spouse".

The (drunk) wife of a very senior diplomat told me in 1989 that the KGB was going to be abolished within days.

Another drunk wife had to be grappled into an official car at the end of most parties. An demurely understated lady colleague of mine witnessed this performance and intimated that she thought the drab in question "might be a secret drinker". Rabble in Laura Ashley frocks.

Ex-patriotism is the last refuge of the bounder with something serious to hide.

Cheers, Ron. What sort of gin do they like down Italy-way? I'm a Hollands man myself.

Gadjo Dilo said...

A "Tangiers of pinstriped stupidity": I'm not going to try to top that by trying any attempt at wit here :-) By the way, MC Ward is blogging again, if you're interested. Oh, he's already been here...

Gadjo Dilo said...

Oh, except to say that I heard Sheremetyevo Airport described as the interface between the soviets and the heavenly host of angels, introducing the latter to the former by being rather horrible and introducing the former to the latter by, err, having airplanes.

No Good Boyo said...

I've checked in at Hotel Ward fairly recently, Gadjo, and shall do so again.

And when are you going to resume bloggening, you Balkan idler?

Gadjo Dilo said...

Thanks for the encouragement, Boyo - I'm itching to get back on the job but sadly still no time.

No Good Boyo said...

We await you as we do Moshiach ben David, though you do tarry.

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No Good Boyo said...

Dear Mr Berkman, this is news to me, but I'll take your proposal into consideration once we sort out my compo.

Ron Combo said...

Drunken suburban prejudice makes my cup runneth over but low-wattage adultery is, sadly, distant if not non-existent in my particular grappa hell.

No Good Boyo said...

I bet it's all or nothing with those Italians, Ron.

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